Voices Of Varanasi

The north Indian city of Varanasi is one of Hinduism’s holiest. The ghats (steps) that lead down to the Ganges River are the city’s focal point, with pilgrims and locals alike bathing daily in the holy waters to wash away their sins and free themselves from the cycle of life and death. “[Varanasi is] one of the oldest living cities in the world,” said Mukesh Sherma, a local tour guide. “It’s a centre for Hinduism like Jerusalem is for Christians and Mecca for Muslims.” For Rajesh Tiwari, the manager of the Old City’s Alka hotel, the ideal Varanasi day starts by going with one of the many boatmen who row people out into the river to watch the sunrise over the Ganges (pictured). “The sun rises opposite the city and a red glow extends over the river to the ghats and the old city. It’s a spiritual time,” he said. Although Varanasi is one of the world’s oldest cities – dating back to 1200BC – it has been destroyed several times and the buildings in today’s Old City are only a few hundred years old. Nevertheless, it is one of the most interesting parts of the city and Rajesh Agarwal, owner of Raju Barbar Perfume, likes to visit “the houses of the Old City to look at the old doors”. Sherma’s favourite place in Varanasi is the Vishwanath Temple (pictured on the poster as taking photos of the site is forbidden). “It’s the most important temple for Hindus,” Sherma said. “When I go into it, a power comes into my body. Every morning after bathing I go there.” Dedicated to the god Shiva, Vishwanath is more commonly known as the Golden Temple because the tower and dome are coated in 800kg of gold plating. Laxmini Narayan Yadey, a charcoal seller in the Old City, has been going to the Golden Temple since he was born. “My family said to me that if I went everyday then I would achieve moksha, liberation from the cycle of re-birth],” he said. Every evening, an elaborate ceremony called ganga aarti is held on the ghats. Dedicated to the god Shiva, the highly choreographed routine by a group of priests uses fire lamps and religious music. “I like the Ganges ceremony because it celebrates our Hindu culture and the Ganges is the mother of all Hindus,” said Chan Chel, owner of the Blue Lassi, an Old City shop that has been in business for more than 70 years and is considered by many to sell the best lassi (yogurt drink) in the city. “When I go to the ceremony I feel close to God. I go there every day”. “My favourite place is the main ghat [Dasaswamedh Ghat] because I have a family connection to it,” said Shiva Shaktivy, a local yoga teacher. “You can meditate here, grow your energy and grow your personal self.” There are around 80 ghats in Varanasi, and Dasaswamedh is said to be where the deity Brahma sacrificed 10 horses. Although you are unlikely to see a horse today, you will see a cross-section of Indian humanity: flower garland sellers, boat men, sadhus (holy men) and pilgrims. It is most colourful at dawn and dusk. Located 8km northeast of the city, Sarnath, is where the Buddha gave his first sermon and is a major site of pilgrimage for Buddhists. Not much more than a village surrounded by parkland, it is a peaceful respite from hectic Varanasi. Tiwari recommended that visitors come here “to relax and enjoy the quiet. I come here with my family to picnic.” More than a place of religious importance, Varanasi is also one of India’s most popular towns for travellers. Magda Bochocka, a visitor from Poland, returns frequently to see her yoga teacher. “This time I came with my mum to practise yoga and cure her of her back problems,” she said. Studios such as theYoga Training Centre can be found in the twisting lanes of the Old City. “From my heart I like to help the pilgrims who come here,” said Harenda Pratap Singh, a policeman at the Golden Temple. “Varanasi is a place of peace and when I am not on duty I like to go to the Ganges and meditate.” For travellers keen on helping others, a number of organisations offer volunteer opportunities, including Learn for Life Society and Saraswati Education Center, both of which offer placements in schools for disadvantaged children.